Amazonia – Travel Challenges Part 2

by Gary Tomlin

Northern Andes, Peru— Started today in the city of Jaén, in the shot-gun seat, of a shared taxi going to the historic city of Chachapoya. It’s a pretty drive to the southeast.

Stopped at the junction in the interesting looking city of Bagua Grande to take on two passengers. There was a lot of commerce, and vendors flocked to the van’s windows selling drinks and snacks.

We turned east and entered the Marañon River Valley. It is the mountain source of the main feeder river to the Amazon, and one of four rivers in my planned cruise through Amazonia.

Very pretty drive. There’s lots of road damage, and we had two long repair delays. There was a happy little boy in the back laughing, talking and entertaining everyone.

I started taking photos. It was a wide, meandering valley. Lots of rice paddies and engaging geology.

Beautiful drive up the canyon to Chachapoya. Lots of photos of the strata. An interesting mountain top city with cultural roots reaching into the distant past. Steep hills and everything built on slopes.

I went Gacto Falls by private taxi. It is near an interesting and charming little mountain village of Cocachimba. Very rustic. It is only pretending to be tourist place, and is over the top for my taste. I got a basic room at the trailhead. The waterfall drop is huge —2,500 feet. There was no regret in the trade-off of not seeing the Chachapoyas ruins.

I left my Android in the taxi, and the driver brought it back to me half an hour later. A young couple was just coming off the trail and wanted to ride down the mountain, so he picked up a fare for his kindness.

Left Cocachimba at about 12:30. A taxi took me to Pedro Ruiz. Got a 3:30 pm reservation on a shared taxi to Mayobamba, and I will figure out how to get to Tarapoto from there.

I was assigned seat number nine. The van was packed. Baggage strapped down on top. There was a blower under the seat in front of me and absolutely no room to move my left leg, but I did OK with that. It was not comfortable but not too crampy. The winding mountain road was very pretty. Towns are small. Driver was amazing. Like all the transport drivers, he owns the road and drives it aggressively yet safely.

It was dark when we came down out of the mountains, so there was no view. The roads were straighter and the van went faster.

When we got to the terminal in Moyobamba, (pop. 88,000) there was a van loading out for Tarapoto. It was a straight up and timely transfer.

The road to Tarapoto, (pop.80,000) was mostly well paved, but winding and steep. Had two seats to myself and slept part of the way.

We arrived at 11:30, and there was a suitable hotel next to the terminal. There was a Restaurant across the street it was still open.

Went back to the terminal in the morning. There was a van loading for Yurimanguas, I asked the driver if I had 30 minutes because I needed to pack and check out of the hotel. He said I did. Just enough time to do that and buy water and snacks. He closed the doors and we left. Perfect.

First half of the road was winding through the mountains, with very few straight stretches. There were severe curves, lots of waterfalls and roadside parks along the way. There were small settlements of a few houses.

When we hit the flatlands the landscape turned into plantations and agriculture. Mostly coconut palm trees is planted in rows. Very pretty road with some rough spots. Villages began to spring up.

We got to the Yurimanguas (pop. 65,000) about noon. I asked a tuktuck driver if he knew a nice coffee shop where I can get food and coffee? He said he did and took me to the Aripari Café. Which was very nice in a tropical way.

I asked the driver if he wanted to come back and get me in 30 minutes, and then hired him for an hour to drive me around the city.

He showed me the port where the rapid boats come and go. Then he showed me the port where the cargo boats loaded.

He took me to the Rio Huallaga Hotel. It will be fine, and I think, according to Expedia, the best available in this city.

My next transport will be a four hour, rapid boat ride to the river village of Lagunas, near the mouth of the Huallaga River.

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